Will Essilor Buy Safilo?


It’s the latest speculation. It has been formulated as a possibility by Exane BNP Paribas, and it could make some sense after the recently reported failure of merger discussions between Essilor International and the Luxottica Group. The two eyewear industry giants have been very respectful of each other until now, avoiding any intrusion into each other’s territory, but this would change if Essilor took over the Safilo Group. Essilor may want to take advantage of Safilo’s relatively depressed share price, caused by Kering’s recent decision to gradually take ownership of its eyewear licenses, managing them directly. Safilo is currently trading at around €12 a share; down from a 52week high of €18.46 reached a year ago, giving it a stock market capitalization of about €755 million. Its share price fell by 25 percent when Kering announced the creation of Kering Eyewear.
As previously reported, after 20 years of cooperation, Kering has decided to terminate its current Gucci license earlier than scheduled, in December 2016, although it has confirmed that it will compensate Safilo for the loss of this important business. It will pay €90 million in three equal installments, the first of which was paid on Jan. 12, and it will continue to rely on Safilo for a while for product development, manufacturing and supply of the products. Five other Kering brands managed by Safilo – Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen and McQ - will be internalized by Kering Eyewear as early as next June 30.
Officials at Essilor and Hal, the largest shareholder in Safilo, declined to make any comments on Exane’s Jan. 15 report, which has been widely publicized in the French and Italian press during the last few days. Exane points out that such a takeover would materially change investors’ perceptions of Luxottica, which was commanding a high valuation with a market capitalization of €22.4 billion when the report was released, giving it a price/earnings ratio of 26.3 times based on a share price of €47.2.
Still, Luxottica’s share price moved up despite the report, reaching €49.90 on Jan. 20, after the publication of Luxottica’s sales results (see the previous article). Its share price fells lightly in subsequent days, but then picked up again and opened this morning at €49.92, close to a 52-week high of €50.20 in spite of its recent change of management. The lack of a decline in the share price of Luxottica or an increase in the share price of Safilo after the publication of there port may indicate that investors don’t really believe in the scenario outlined by Exane. The investment company explains why toward the end of its analysis.
According to Exane, Essilor could be interested in acquiring Safilo to reinforce its position in sunglasses and to move into prescription frames as part of its exploration of new growth areas outside its core ophthalmic lens business, where it already has a strong position, giving it less room for further expansion. Essilor is probably interested in acquiring a supplier of prescription frames and sunglasses because it has been investing lately in sunglasses and online retailing, where it sees possibilities for growth of more than 6 percent and 14 percent a year, respectively, compared with 3-4 percent increases for prescription lenses. Its growth in the ophthalmic lens sector is being challenged by Hoya, which has major ambitions in the area. Essilor has been careful not to enter the higher-priced segment of the sunglass market, which is dominated by Luxottica, but it may come to it through Safilo. We remember that Luxottica owned Logo Eyewear many years ago.

Safilo is already working together with Essilor through a licensing agreement signed in May 2013 for Polaroid branded sun lenses. This could facilitate the integration, Exane says. On the other hand, Exane feels that Essilor may fear a direct confrontation with Luxottica as it probably is its largest single client, representing about 5 percent of its annual sales. It also points out that it may be too soon for such a mega-deal, as Essilor is still digesting major acquisitions such as those of Transitions, Costa and Coastal.com. Purchasing Safilo for €1 billion would lift Essilor’s net debt to two times its Ebitda. Exane believes that a merger between Essilor and Luxottica would make more sense, and that any interest displayed in Safilo could be the French giant’s way to convince Luxottica’s shareholders to come to the negotiating table.
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